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Surfing is not for everyone

So Saturday we had another game and we lost again. We're not doing so good. Finally we got everyone to come to training. Saturday night I went to work and then we went over to our friends Brewster and Louies house and drank with a bunch of friends. We had a great time but Meribeth had too great of a time because she passed out in the bathroom and they had to pick the lock to get her out and carry her to a bed. Haha it was hilarious! Don't worry mom it wasn't me! Sunday I worked and then Monday we had practice.
So we were planning a trip to Moreton bay but it didn't work out because we waited to long to book it. So we decided to go for a surfing lesson. The deal was you pay $70 and the guy picks you up and drives you to the beach then gives you lessons for 2.5 hours, feeds you lunch and then you get anouther 2.5 hours of surfing in. We couldn't wait!
So we walk to the location that he was going to pick us up at 8:30 this morning. He was right on time. So we pick up the other 3 girls and head out. There was one girl from South Australia called Adelaide and two were visiting from North West Australia at a place called Darwin. They were all nice.
So we take off for an hour drive north to a beach, god knows what the name of it was because all the names are crazy here. Anyhow, we get there and he gives us a lesson on the beach on how to get on the board and how to catch a wave and all that good important stuff! sounds great. So we jump in ready to ride the waves. We started with waves that already broke so the ones that are white. It was frustrating at first but then I started to stand up and it got more and more exciting. I crashed really hard a few times. One time I stopped rolled under the surf board and when I came back up the board smacked me in the head. Man did that hurt!
It was time to break for lunch. he supplied us with lunch we had sandwhiches and fruit and a these cheesie chips that were just like cheetos. We hung out for a little bit and headed back out to the water.
I couldn't wait to get back out there and try some more waves. I was planning on when I was going to buy a surfboard and trying to figure out when I can fit some more practice in. things were going great.
So he thought that it was time to try unbroken waves or green waves. That would require us to paddle out pass the waves so we can catch them before they break. Apparently, he thought we were ready for that and boy was he wrong!!!
I pass the first few waves and that was it. it was sooo hard. I kept getting knocked off this monstrous board that was about 9 feet long. when the waves got big we were supposed to hold on to our board and roll underneath it. Well the first time I did it, the board hit me smack in the face. so I thought wow is this stupid, then when you try and roll back on top of it you can't get back on. so I try to get out there for about 20 minutes, trying to paddle, roll, and just get through the waves. He finally comes over and helps me and I get out to where I need to be. At this point there is no way in hell, I'm going to try and surf a wave just to end up right where I started! So I sit there for a minute why anyone thinks this is fun, when a gigantic wave knocked me off my board! Then another one came and I just ended up getting drug back in. So i was exhausted and beat up so I tried a few small waves and then took a break on the beach.
I decided to go out a few more times, but the waves had traumatized me and I was exhausted from constantly getting hit and beat from the waves. Meanwhile while we're all out there trying to do this, our instructor decided he did his job and he went out and surfed. So the first time I sat on the beach this little girl about 4 said are you all finished? I said no I'm just taking a break. She talked to me for a few minutes and then walked away. I went back for a while and then came out for another rest. The little girl came back again and said are you having another sit down? I said yes surfing is hard. So she decided I was her new friend and we had a great ol' time pouring water on my head and buring our feet.
I told the little girl I had to go and she was pretty sad about that. She said okay I live at 16 woodburrow street you can visit me there. I told the little girl it was not a very good idea to tell people where you live.

Posted by jdbland1 2:28 AM

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